KitchenBoy

I received an email asking what device will most effectively chop nuts.

First, let’s look at the easiest way to chop nuts without adding another tool to the cabinet.

The fastest, best way to chop nuts is with a knife on a cutting board. Depending on the intended size of end product, you can smack the nuts with the flat blade portion of a chef’s knife, then invert the blade and chop until you reach the size you seek.

Another low tech method involves smashing the nuts in a Ziploc bag or tea towel. You simply put the nuts in the bag or towel to contain the nut pieces as they break. You can then smash the nuts with a skillet or meat mallet. If you use a Ziploc bag, make sure you press out the majority of the air in the bag before smashing it. If you don’t, you risk popping the bag and making a mess.

The next option I would suggest is to use a tool you probably already have in your kitchen - your food processor. The key to effectively chopping nuts in a food processor is to pulse the blade in a quick on and off fashion. You need to pay close attention to the bowl to make sure you aren’t turning the nuts into paste or “flour”. Also don’t overload the bowl with nuts - too many nuts in the bowl means some will become paste before the rest are chopped. I have tried to use topside mounted disks, for example a slicing blade, to chop or slice nuts, but the nuts tend to bounce around inside the feeder tube and never really achieve the result I am seeking.

If none of these methods appeal, there are a couple of tools available for chopping nuts that do a good job - it does mean adding another tool to your collection.

The first and simplest is the Progressive Nut Grinder. It features an enclosed top loading chamber, a manual crank and a bottom collection bowl with volume measurements on the side. It will hold about a cup of chopped nuts. I like it because it is easy to use, effective, reliable and doesn’t create a mess.

Another option, is the table clamped food grinder from Universal. It reminds me of the old style cast iron meat grinder. In fact they look so similar that many people confuse the two when seen on a shelf. The difference is the grinding blade, which will be displayed on the outside of the box. The food grinder is an exposed convex exposed blade. This tool will do a lot of nuts easily, but it is heavy, bulky and a bit more involved to clean. On the positive side this durable, rugged tool will grind other types of food making it a multi-tasker in the kitchen.

There are also manual tools like a twist and chop, but I do not recommend using it for anything but soft nuts like walnuts and even then, walnuts can get stuck on the blades. Additionally, they can only chop small amounts of nuts and will produce uneven, unsatisfactory results.

There are also pump style food choppers that will work just fine on a variety of nuts. These tools are cylindrical in shape and have a top hand pump. You simply push down on on the pump and a spring kicks it back upward; the better models rotate the blades as you pump. Some of these models also have measuring marks on the collection bin.

Though many tools can be used for multiple tasks, there are some that I don’t think work well for chopping nuts. This includes rotary cylinder graters that are very effective for cheese, but aren’t so good for nuts. “Salad shooters” and the Kitchen Aid attachment also fall into this category.

I am also not fond of using box graters for this purpose either. They are ineffective for use with nuts and rough on the fingers if you are not careful.

If your goal is slivered or sliced nuts, then I would suggest you buy them already cut. You can hold nuts and slice or julienne them with a knife, but it takes lots of patience and time.

In the end, if you choose not to use your knife, I would say smash them in a bag or towel using a skillet. It is just so simple. After that, I like the Progressive nut grinder.

Special Note:

- If you are going to roast the nuts, roast them before chopping. You will get a better tasting finished product.

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Recently, I posted something on my Facebook account about having eaten waffles one Saturday morning. The comments and emails I received were varied and interesting. One question caught my eye and I thought it would be interesting to explore: what is the difference between pancake and waffle dough?

A dough contains a combination of water and flour. The leavening can occur naturally or by “force” using yeast, baking powder or baking soda. Doughs fall into three basic categories: bread, quick and batter.

Bread Dough
Dough for bread has a relatively low percentage of moisture to flour ratio and can be manipulated by hand and stand on its own. This is due to a combination of moisture percentage and gluten development during the kneading process. The name dough comes from a word which means “to form”.

Quick Bread
A quick bread is defined as having a higher percentage of moisture to flour - think banana bread or pound cake. These types of breads need to be baked in a pan as they lack the developed gluten to stand on their own. Quick bread doughs are constructed with the dry ingredients being mixed together separately from the the wet. The wet is then added to the dry, then quickly placed in the baking pan and placed in the oven.

Batter Dough
Pancakes and waffles are batter doughs and have an even higher percentage of moisture to flour ratio. There is almost no gluten development and a very high level of moisture. In the purest sense though, they are quick breads and are constructed in the same manner - wet into dry. The high moisture levels dictate that this batter remain in a bowl until it is cooked. The name batter comes from a root which means “to beat”.

Waffles and pancakes were introduced to North America in the 18th century. In fact, documents show that George Washington liked a type of griddle cake called a Johnny Cake. This recipe, made from mostly corn flour, produces a very dense thick pancake. To our modern palate it is like the difference between “Yankee” corn bread and true Southern corn bread. The former is light and airy, the latter dry and dense with a more pronounced corn flavor. Being so dense, it is no wonder it is said that Mr. Washington enjoyed these Johnny Cakes smothered in butter and honey. While Johnny Cakes aren’t my personal favorite, they are very hearty.

So what is the difference between pancake and waffle batter? Not much really. Both have leavening added in the form of baking powder, baking soda, beaten egg whites or yeast. It isn’t a matter of thickness, though waffle batter does tend to be thicker. Some people prefer a thinner pancake and therefore make a more fluid batter - I wouldn’t recommend using this consistency in a waffle iron. The only real difference is that proper waffle batter should have a higher percentage of fat and sugar. The higher levels of fat and sugar help to brown and crisp the waffle.

I have, like most people today, used the same dough for both pancakes and waffles. I tend toward a thicker pancake batter anyway. The lower levels of fat and sugar will affect the finished waffle, but there are many ways to vary the texture and flavor. The results of all these variations can range from crisper, browner, softer or lighter waffles and are simply a matter of taste. The same holds true with pancakes.

One obvious difference is how waffles and pancakes are cooked. Pancakes are poured onto a hot, flat surface and cooked until bubbles form and disappear from one side, then turned and finished on the other. Waffles are poured between two heated, shaped plates called irons. These irons have various patterns on the inside which provide unique patterns on the surface of the finished product. The oldest form of waffle iron was literally made from iron and placed on the embers of a fire or on a cooktop flame to cook until done. While these basic irons still exist today, most of us use some form of electric waffle iron. (I will soon post a review of various waffle irons available).

Often times, we make more pancakes or waffles than we can consume. Good news - both pancakes and waffles freeze nicely for several weeks. After cooling the pieces on a rack, I like to put parchment or wax paper between them and freeze in zip lock bags. Pancakes can be reheated in the microwave, as they are more moist and soft anyway. Microwaves tend to soften doughs and if left in too long, toughen them. Waffles, however, must be reheated in a toaster, toaster oven or regular oven. They need the dry air to heat them and retain their crispness. While neither will be as good as fresh made, they do make for a quick breakfast or snack.

And lest this article end before I answer that other question in your head…crepes (blintzes and palaschinki). Crepes are also a batter dough enriched with eggs, milk and sometimes beer, however they are not leavened in any way. Crepe dough sits for at least an hour, is poured very thinly into the pan and is cooked very fast. They can be served as a sweet or a savory dish. I have even seen crepe dough used to form a pizza-like tart and finished crepes layered with preserves to form a cake.

Popovers or Yorkshire pudding, is made from what is basically a crepe dough. The only real difference is the cooking method which develops one large air pocket. The dough is poured into a heated, deep, narrow pan and placed in a hot oven. The surface sets immediately and traps the air forming a thin shell, blistered and puffed high.

English Crumpets and Russian blini are essentially leavened pancake dough. They are cooked very similarly, though crumpets are poured into ring molds for that traditional shape.

Oh and Chinese pancakes? They are made from a rolled-out wheat flour and water dough. They are cooked in pairs, peeled apart and cooked lightly on their second side.

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Does the Color of the Egg Shell Make a Difference?

It has been said many times, in many places, but it bears repeating…the color of the egg shell does not indicate higher quality or better nutrition. Generally speaking, chickens with white feathers and ear lobes lay white eggs; breeds with red feathers and ear lobes lay brown eggs.

Somehow brown shells became associated with healthy, farm fresh eggs and white shells gained a negative reputation.

There are perfectly healthy, good for you eggs with white shells.

The more important factor for me relates to how the chicken is raised.

The vast majority of chickens in North America are raised in some form of conventional hen house.

Don’t be fooled by labels in organic and regular supermarkets today. So called free-range chickens will more than likely never see a blade of grass in their life.

Terms you will see and what they really mean:

“Free-range” — The term is meant to imply pasture raised, but it really means that the chickens have access to the out of doors. It can be a dirt lot at the end of a large organic confinement chicken house.

“Free-roaming” — The term means that the chickens are housed on the floor of a large confinement chicken house instead of in small wire cages. They most likely do not have access to the out of doors.

“Cage-free” — The term is basically the same as “Free-roaming”

The real benefits come from those chickens who are pasture raised.

What is the difference?

Pasture raised chickens spend the better part of their day outside, eating grass and insects and getting fresh air and sunshine. This requires larger amounts of open space. Additionally, the chickens need to be moved periodically. This is more costly and time consuming, which is why large distributors won’t do it.

I can personally attest to one thing - chickens raised this way produce eggs of a superior taste! I have eaten pasture raised chicken eggs from a farm north of Washington, DC and at the home of our wine growing friends, Deb and John, in California. The egg taste compared to conventional methods is like the difference between garden fresh tomatoes and hot house ones. If you taste eggs from pasture raised chickens, you will not want to go back.

On top of the great taste, studies indicate these type of eggs possess a higher nutritional value. Various independent studies have shown that eggs produced by pasture raised chickens, fed a healthy grain diet, are higher in Omega-3 fatty acids and lower in saturated fats. This is one reason why you are now seeing companies feeding chickens special diets to boost their Omega-3s. Beware of contradictory studies funded by large self serving agribusiness.

Other egg misinformation:

Yolk color - indicates a healthier, better tasting egg. I used to think darker yolks were better and have since learned this is not true. Yolk color is determined by the diet of the chicken. If the hen gets plenty of yellow/orange plant pigments known as xanthophylls, you will see a darker more appealing yolk. Hens fed mash containing yellow corn and alfalfa meal will have eggs with medium yellow yolks. Those who eat wheat or barley will have lighter colored yolks. A diet of white cornmeal produces nearly colorless yolks. To enhance yolk color, natural yellow/orange elements like marigold petals can be added to light colored feeds to enhance yolk color. No one is allowed to use artificial additives to enhance yolk color. A darker yolk can affect the color of products made with them such as pasta. And finally, regardless of color, the yolk is where you find the nutrients and naturally occurring vitamin D. The egg white is mostly protein.

Egg freshness test - you cannot tell the freshness of an egg by placing it in salt water. The old adage is, if an egg floats in salted water, it is spoiled and unsafe to eat. In fact, eggs would unsafe to eat well before they would float in water. Interestingly, eggs older than one week are easier to peel, when boiled, than fresher eggs. However when poaching eggs, you will want the freshest egg possible. A fresh egg will hold its shape in the water better. Properly stored eggs will remain safe to use for several weeks. If you have any doubts about the freshness of the egg, do not use it.

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The Campbell Soup Co. executive who was behind the enduring brands SpaghettiOs and Chunky Soup has died. His name was Donald Goerke and he was 83.

OK, I know that SpaghettiOs are almost completely void of nutrition and the flavor is next to awful, but as a child, I loved SpaghettiOs. Almost every Saturday, my dad would make us the same basic lunch. It consisted of either SpaghettiOs or Cream of Tomato and a sandwich. I always lobbied for SpaghettiOs. I have fond memories of this food product. And besides, who didn’t love the jingle “Uh-oh, SpaghettiOs!”

Anyway, just thought I would mention the passing the man who made my Saturday’s fun.

In this installment of our recurring feature, we are going to look at how to find more uses for a wire cheese slicer. Many of us have at some point purchased or been given a wire cheese slicer as a gift and then stored the poor thing in a drawer or cabinet. It only makes an appearance when we have a dinner or cocktail party, otherwise it sits idle.

I’ll bet you never thought about how good it is at slicing other food which have tools of their own designed to slice them.

I make pizzas at home quite often and like many of you, find it challenging to thinly slice fresh mozzarella cheese. Oh sure, there are times I coarsely grate the mozzarella, however most often I prefer to slice it for the pizza. One day a couple of weeks ago I pulled out the cheese slicer hidden away in the middle drawer and man did it do a great job! You can slice as thin or thick as you like with the wire slicer.

After having such great success with the mozzarella, I tried it on a hard boiled egg. Once again, the wire slicer did a great job of thinly slicing the egg. Of course, you could slice it lengthwise, into wedges or thicker slices if you so choose.

Oh sure, you can buy a mozzarella slicer like one of these…

or you could also buy an egg slicer. I admit the egg slicers can have some interesting features like a rotating base that allows you “dice” the hard boiled egg.

If the mozzarella and hard boiled eggs aren’t enough for you, how about using it for slicing butter. Again, they sell butter slicers for this purpose, but you already own one! Or what about using it to slice strawberries or bananas? Making those decorative strawberry fans or cleanly sliced soft fruit for creative presentation.

As you can see, I think that the wire slicer is a very versatile tool. So why not pull it out of the drawer and give it new life! This one tool does so many things you don’t need to buy more gadgets.

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Here’s hoping you have a blessed and joyful New Year!

These days many people have newer style convection ovens in their houses, but I am learning that there is a good deal of confusion regarding how they function.

What is a convection oven?

In a “normal” or radiant oven, heated air radiates from a source in the bottom of the rectangular box shaped oven, via either electric or gas. This heat rises up and performs in a generally inefficient way. Specifically, with radiant heat baking, heat tends to be blocked by baking sheets and stones and other implements put in the oven. As a result, air does not efficiently circulate over the top of food, because heat is solely coming from below. This causes hot and cold spots in the oven leading to inconsistent baking. Thus anything placed too close to the bottom will receive too much heat, as does anything too high in the oven as this is where heat ends up. This is not to say that radiant heat baking is without merit, but more on that in a second.
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